Quality Drywall Co.

Over the years, I have learned many small things that can make drywall easier. 

Some were passed on to me, others, I figured out on my own. I doubt any of these tips were "created" by me, but they may be new and/or helpful to you.

• Fewer Joints = Fewer Problems (this makes for less measurements, fasteners, cuts and joints to repair which results in faster and higher quality application with less callbacks and reduced potential for future problems).

• Screws are better than nails, but glue is the best!

• Drywall joints and framing joints must be separated from each other, and joints must be staggered (See image).

I have been called in many time by fed up folks to repair and/or finish the drywall projects started by their spouse. I understand the idea of saving money by doing some of the work yourself, but I think you should first consider your own ability to achieve a quality drywall finish in your home based on your level of drywall knowledge. The quality of the finished drywall directly corresponds to the quality of the framing and the drywall hanging. Think to yourself, do you understand what all of this means? You should also take a moment to consider how much time the work will take you, how much dust from extra sanding you will have to deal with and if the extended amount of time that it takes to do the job yourself may overshadow any savings you had hoped to gain. Not to mention the physical toll you will bear, insurance questions and a lack of warranty you will have. So, after considering all of these things, I hope you can come to conclusion that in general, hiring a professional will save you money, time, and headache in the long run. And will keep your spouse happier.

When I hang the top row of drywall on a regular wall, I will prenail (insert a row of nails before hanging) across the top of the sheet so that I can attach the sheet with one hand while holding the sheet in place with the other. After moving the sheet into place with two hands I continue to use my left to hold sheet in place while using my right to grab my hammer out of my tool pouch and gently set the nails. Once the sheet is suspended, use screws to fasten the sheet as per code. Put a screw near each nail.

Many times, I've needed to make a chalk line over a short distance, say 1-5 ft, and did not have someone with me to help hold the other end of the line. What I've discovered to be able to do it yourself is to wrap the end of the line around your pinkie finger on your primary hand. If it is your right hand, wrap it counter-clockwise. Vice versa for if it is your left hand. This allows you to hold down the end with your pinkie finger, stretch it and hold it down with your other hand, and snap the line with the thumb & forefinger of your primary hand.

Mesh tape is a specialty product that is over-used by the D.Y.I. community, and very often, used incorrectly. Mesh tape is not as strong as paper tape, as it will stretch under load, even after the joint is completely finished and has absolutely no shear strength. I especially do not recommend using it in angles, as it does not hold a good shape and is easily cut while applying mud over it.

      Another major aspect of fiberglass mesh tape is that is needs to be embedded with Durabond Setting-Type or Easy Sand Lightweight Setting Type compound (mud), which are products I would not recommend for non-professionals. While these products have several advantages including less shrinkage, quicker set time, harder finish and stronger bond, these same features can cause large problems for the untrained.

     These products do not shrink as much if at all, but have on some occasions been known to swell. And regardless of the "Easy Sand" title, this really only means easier to sand than Durabond, which does not sand at all, not that it is "easy" to sand. I usually try to never have to sand these products.

     Finally, generally speaking, I have not met any D.Y.I. folks who actually need a quicker set time, although this can help the professional do one day patch jobs. Quicker mud will most likely just set-up in your pan, making it useless. The harder finish also makes for difficult sanding, or leaves the user to not sand at all, something amateurs seem to do a lot of. The stronger bond in the mud is what makes it the best for correct application of mesh tape, adding strength to a less weaker product, and is why untrained people should not be using mesh tape.

Although it may be tempting, don?t skip the primer. For a quality drywall finish, primer is very important. The surface characteristics of sanded drywall mud and raw drywall paper have a few differences, making them difficult to paint. They do not absorb moisture at the same rate (porosity), and don't have the same textures, both of which can cause "flashing", "banding" or "photographing", which in layman's terms means you can see the drywall joints and fasteners through the paint under some lighting conditions, which is undesirable and unacceptable. Using a primer designed for new drywall will remedy these issues.

 Until recently, there was only one product available and it is still the best out there today. It is U.S.G. brand Sheetrock First Coat Primer (sold at Menards and elsewhere), setting the industry standard. It is inexpensive, water clean-up, dries quickly, and I highly recommend it to every one of my customers.

I hate sanding, so I make sure I have to do as little as necessary. In fact, I rarely sand in a grinding fashion at all anymore. Heavy sanding is not necessary because I do not apply extra mud which will then need sanded off, the method used by professionals. More often, I "brush" the joints off  with a sander or drywall knife to remove any burrs or debris from the previous coat. Excessive sanding leads to more dust on the walls and everywhere else, which can cause scratches in the next coat. It can also rough up the drywall paper to the point that will require another skim coat of mud to fix. Sanding should be very minimal.

Sheetrock Brand UltraLight drywall panels are a dream come true. U.S.G. has created a drywall panel that is up to 30% lighter than the old and is the lightest 1/2 in. drywall available today. It is also stronger, able to span 24" on-center ceiling trusses (sag-resistant), and easier to cut with less rasping and dust. This means less fuel to transport the materials in all aspects of delivery and disposal. It also  means the drywall in your home will be stronger, adding more strength and putting less weight on your walls, ceilings and foundation.                                              

A piece of string pulled tight between two points will create a straight line. This building technology dates back to the pyramids or longer, and is still used around the world today by building trades of all types in many forms including the plumb bob, and the chalk line. The electronic version is lasers, and yet the string-line is still the most often used choice. 

     This is how to tie a string-line, and untie it for reuse without cutting the string. You will need two nails and a piece of string. Put the first nail in where you want the line to start. Then, take a loop tied on the end of the string and hook it over the nail. Place the second nail where you want the line to end, pull the other end of the string to it. Fold the remaining bit of string in half, having the center where the nail would be. Then put your finger in the bend and rotate it causing the sting to twist onto itself 5-6 times. Put the bend over the second nail, leaving the twists in.

Next, with one hand, pull the main part of the string tighter towards the second nail while simultaneously pulling the loose end towards the first nail, taking up the slack in the main part of the string. When the string has reached the desired tautness,  pull the loose end back past the second nail, causing the twists to cinch in towards the second nail, stacking on top of one another creating a "tie" mechanism. Your string is now tied into place. The string is easily undone by pulling the loose end back towards the first nail causing the twists to stretch out and undo the "tie". The string may be made tighter or looser by adding or removing the slack in the line, however you must pull the string tight enough that there is no sagging. (Note; screws may be used in place of nails, but care must be taken as the string may be cut by the sharp ridges of the threads as the string is pulled to tighten the string.) 

United States Gypsum Company (USG) was incorporated in 1901 by consolidating 30 different gypsum and plaster companies. This resulted in forming the first nationwide gypsum company in the United States. The company is the largest distributor of wallboard in the United States and the largest manufacturer and marketer of gypsum products in North America, including wallboard, joint compound, building plasters and cement board. USG is also the world's largest manufacturer of ceiling suspension grid, and the second largest producer of ceiling tile in the world.

The company produces the widely-used Sheetrock^TM gypsum wallboard as well as Durock^TM cement board, operating in 17 gypsum board plants and 14 joint treatments plants in the United States. They also operate 5 paper  mills that produce high-grade wallboard paper from 100% recycled paper, meaning they are a green company. USG continues to lead the industry with the creation of light-weight joint compound, joint-compound with dust control, mold resistant drywall and now UltraLight Drywall.

I have used many brands of drywall, mud and tapes over the years, but none compare in quality of product and ease of use to USG.